Is reputation superseding quality in Saint-Émilion’s classification?

he Saint-Emilion Grands Crus classification is struggling to shed the idea that reputation is a rating criterion that prevails over the quality of the wines tasted. Evidence of this came recently in a press release issued by a chateau classified in 2022: “Château Rochebelle has again been classified as a ‘Grand Cru Classé’ despite a tasting note equal to that of a ‘Premier Grand Cru Classé’”. The statement adds that “since 1995, all the vintages tasted for the 2012 and 2022 classifications have been awarded tasting scores (consistency of the wines/ageability) on a par with Premier level”. The chateau’s co-owner, Philippe Faniest, expounds further, saying that “although the vineyard effortlessly confirmed the fundamentals for eligibility as 'Premier Grand Cru Classé' (tasting, characterisation of the property, vineyard management), the jury is still out on the issue regarding criteria for assessing the ‘reputation’ part. It would seem, among other things, that the very affordable price of the wines strongly penalised the property”.

The National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO) did not wish to “comment at this stage on the individual results of the candidates, especially as the approval procedure is underway”, and reminded Vitisphere that “Château Rochebelle was classified for the first time in 2012 and recognised for the second time as a 'Grand Cru Classé'” in 2022. “It should nevertheless be remembered that the 2022 classification significantly increased the tasting score for candidates for ‘Premier Grand Cru Classé’ status from 30% to 50% of the final score”.