Organic commitments in Champagne skyrocket in 2021

itisphere spoke to Pascal Doquet, chairman of the organic Champagne association, who is delighted with the speed at which Champagne winegrowers are committing to farming organically. 143 estates signed up to the scheme in 2021, out of 567 organic farms in Champagne.

Occurrences of mildew in 2021 might have discouraged some winegrowers from farming organically, but you are actually making headway...

Pascal Doquet: I was pleasantly surprised by the growth! I didn't expect this momentum. The protection afforded by the individual reserve system certainly partly explains why, despite a terrible year, acreage committed to organic farming in Champagne increased again. However, some growers threw in the towel.

What is the profile of those who have recently signed up?

There are of course young growers, but there are also those who are certified under the Sustainable Winegrowers in Champagne scheme and feel that the gap between them and organic is narrowing and so they decide to sign up. It's the culmination of several years' work. Taking part in the open days we organise at organic farms is also a catalyst.

What lessons have you learned from 2021?

2021 confirmed that you have to be well prepared to commit to organic viticulture. On top of the four hours or more required to spray an entire plot, the risk of crop loss is increasing progressively and more significantly. 2021 also demonstrated the need for a ‘plan B’, when access to vineyards was no longer possible by tractor. After several years of fairly favourable weather, some new converts may not have been sufficiently aware of these requirements. But even for some experienced organic winegrowers, safeguarding the crop in the most exposed vineyards was not always possible.