Wines improve when they spend time at high altitudes

Wines kept at high altitudes are denser, longer, purer and more harmonious than those stored on the plains”. Or at least, that is the conclusion reached after trials conducted over several years by 3-star Michelin Savoy chefs René and Maxime Meilleur. Since 2004, the father and son have been bringing together “winegrowers, scientists and wine critics” at their Savoy restaurant La Bouitte to “analyse the influence of altitude on the ageing and tasting of wines and foods”, says a press release.

The lower atmospheric pressure and lower oxygen levels pave the way for some spectacular observations about the wines. “Provided the natural hygrometry is corrected by humidifying the air in winter, they offer more elegant aromas and more open fruit. Ageing is slower. As the wines mature in the mountains, they gain in complexity and precision and achieve unexpected balance. They therefore appear younger, more spherical and more subtle”, claims the press release. The red wines allegedly show “softer tannins and a smoother mouthfeel”, whilst the Champagnes have “finer, more effervescent bubbles, with ethereal, nuanced aromas and perfect balance between tension and fullness”.

Since 2020, tests have been carried out earlier in the process, during the maturation phase. A barrel of the 2019 Ursus label by Clos de l'Ours (Provence), was placed in the semi-underground cellar of their high-altitude restaurant (2,700 m), with controlled temperature and hygrometry. After two years of maturation, the wine was compared to its control wine, matured at the winery in Cotignac, Provence (230m).